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Diary - Egypt - Cairo to Aswan (26th May to 8th Jun)
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| Egypt is a land of contrast, not only the difference from rich to poor, between clean and squalor but the way different people experience the country. We have yet to meet a traveller that has enjoyed their experience, due to the number of police checks, constant haggling for a fair price and the constant harassment. This had been the view we have had and why we have never really been excited about this part of the journey and why, even though we have reached Africa in a geographical sense, we do not feel that we have reached the Africa that our hearts yarn for. |
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| Our final evening in Cairo was to visit the sight that symbolises Egyptian history, the Pyramids of Giza. You hear so many things about these three icons and see so many photos that you can’t help build them up to be incredibly majestic. However as we have found with other attractions, it just means they fall harder and none so much as the disappointment the Pyramids gave us. Admittedly it started a bit disappointing as Gweneveer was refused entry as we had Gas and Jerry Cans on board (leave them and any alcohol at the campsite). This meant we had to walk around the site, refusing the constant barrage of touts trying to pimp out their Camels. The walk and views of the site is further marred by the litter scattered everywhere and the very unsympathetic buildings and structures placed around. As for the Sphinx, well let us not start there! |
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| Like many overlanders we decided to go for the non tourist route towards Luxor that involves a one thousand plus trip into the Western Desert. The majority of the desert is barren and completely uninhabitable, until fresh water springs appear from nowhere and create the green, lush oasis that makes your tongue salivate for a drink after the hours travelling in a hot barren place. This said the complete journey does vary, even the sandy areas, but each type lasts for hours. |
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| We were joined later by Bob and Jackie again, so we decided that we would all venture into the desert together. The White Desert is scattered with chalk rocks giving the area a very reflective coating. It also means that after centuries the sand and wind have punished the chalk into shaping themselves into strange shapes. We both loved using childlike imaginations to see what we could discover, often trying to race each other for the next animal shape, with the pinnacle being the Rabbit shaped rock. After so long being restricted to campsites it was wonderful to wild camp again, especially cooking on a log fire. We spent the evening staring at the dazzling sky filled with thousands of stars, unless we were checking for snakes. |
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| On the long route to Luxor, getting followed by the Tourist Police, which is annoying and really not necessary, we stopped of at a couple of sites. The first being Al Qasr, an old mud built village where some people still live. Being met by a guide we dubiously followed as we weren’t sure if he was official. However the tour was great fun and we were shown around a variety of different buildings, many with different floors or vaulted ceilings. It is amazing how strong and long lasting building made of mud and straw bricks can be; somebody should have told the three little pigs. |
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| We ended up staying in Luxor for four nights visiting the major sights and taking all possible modes of transport, including boat, pickup truck as well as a horse and cart. Though these four days was very draining due to the incessant hassle you get from touts and shop keepers. It is here that the words ‘no thank you’ in any language are simply ignored, so our new favourite word is ‘Imshee’, meaning ‘Go Away’. At every sight, on every street, for every new metre you walk, there is someone else trying to wring out our money like water from a cloth. Even the taxi drivers follow you for ages hoping you will change your mind, even though they just seen you turn down the five before. |
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| Our little convoy for Sudan has now increased to an interesting mix with addition of two more nationalities to the group, a Dutch couple (Roy and Sandy) and a family from France (Phillipe, Geraldine and Tiffany, the youngster). The fresh faces are great, especially when it gives us more people to mess about in the swimming pool with. |
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| We were really pleased as we headed south again, escaping the touts. We took two chances to stop and escape the vehicles for some shade at the Temple of Horus and later a rest, dipping our feet in the Nile, under the shadows of Kom Ombo. Not having any preconceptions we were amazed to see what lay before us at the Temple of Horus. This temple shocked all of us (we were with the Swiss) and at the same time gave us some relief to see something that lived up to the hype of the Pharaohs. It is big, full of hieroglyphics and very well preserved, without much of the Egyptian cement poured on. We even took the time to have lunch in the car park under the shade used for the Horses, ignoring the aroma! |
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| We decided to head even further south after Aswan to Abu Simbel, with the crazy idea to wakeup and be in the temple for 5am to beat the crowds and watch the sunrise. This happened to be a wonderful idea, as we felt cool for the first time in weeks, as it was only 28 Degrees at this early hour. As we entered the site we were alone for the first twenty minutes before the hordes arrived. We wandered the darkness, silently in amazement at the grandeur and impressiveness of Abu Simbel. Combined with the sunrise and that Katie was given the giant gold key to open the huge temple doors (which Steve hasn’t stopped hearing about yet!), made this our favourite site. It certainly is worth the 8 hour return journey through 45 Degree desert worthwhile and although we will see it from Lake Nasser whilst travelling to Sudan by Ferry you would not get to see the detail on the inside. |
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| The rest of our time in Egypt has been a mixture of chasing the shade and sorting what is needed for the ferry in Aswan. Except our last full day started badly as when we awoke we found Katie had a missing sandal. After lots of hunting and Steve feeling guilty as he was meant to have put the shoes away, the search was abandoned with a trip to find new ones planned. Returning to camp after more haggling over the price of bread, Katie told another man her ordeal, only to find him disappear and return three hours later with missing shoe in hand. He was certainly our hero of Egypt and showed yet again that the Nubian people compared to Arabs are remarkably helpful. Though the reward did end up costing Katie her new flip-flops as a thank you. |
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| We are now off to the ferry and the ‘real’ Africa and although we both loved and hated our time in Egypt it is the first country we have ever left in the hope of not returning. |
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| For more photos please see the Gallery. |
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| Pyramids |
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| Hand full of bites |
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| Chalk Bunny |
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| Katie Grinding |
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| Headless Hieroglyphics |
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| Temple of Horus |
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| Reading Hieroglyphics |
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| Cold Shower |
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| Golden Key |
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| Abu Simbel |
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| Replacement Statue |
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| The Ferry Gang |
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| The Touring Group |
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