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Diary - Rwanda (15th Sept to 20th Sept)
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Everyone has always said that you have to obtain a gorilla permit months in advance as tour companies buy them all up. We had been trying for a few days whilst still in Uganda, trying to save a journey to the capital, Kigali, but every time we called they did the typical thing of saying none were available without even checking anything. Finally we managed to speak to a local tour company who suggested that if we got to the gate he would sort us some late minute tickets. Eager to get there as soon as possible, we packed up and headed straight for the Volcanoes National Park. Stopping for what was the slowest and worst lunch in Uganda in the very last town. Africa is never in a hurry and the pace of life is slow regardless of how excited other people are. We ended up waiting for over forty five minutes for an over priced rubbery omelette and chips. The last time we believe that guide for food suggestions!
We crossed the border at the tiniest place possible and it proved to be the easiest and most enjoyable so far. It was so insignificant that we ignored the converted garage that was serving as the first immigration building. Things proved the opposite in Rwanda and following the signs we merrily walked into the first office, only to find that we were on the wrong side of the counter, being stared at by a room of officials most of whom had just been caught watching football highlights on their highly official computers. Things continued in this strange manner with Katie falling into the money change hut and then us heading through and out of the first town completely on the wrong side of the road, simply thinking the locals had enthusiastic waves!
Our first night in Rwanda was a strange one as although we were told that tickets for the next day would be ours, we were not convinced. Thankfully we were distracted by an American bloke and an English woman, with us spending most of the time picking on the yanks. Come the morning we got to the park entrance, had our free coffee and then began the wait. Even though we were put in a group we couldn’t join the debrief as we still only had one ticket, stood alone we began to cross our fingers and pray. Getting more and more nervous was not fun, but thankfully before too long the guide appeared with a big smile and two tickets.
With our excitement sky high with anticipation, we were armed with big sticks and headed of up hill towards the hairy beasts. As is normal Katie was getting slightly over excited during the walk, realising more and more that a long time dream was coming true. This proved her downfall as she began panicking that she would not make it, especially as we were heading for the more difficult group they have. After a quick explanation to the group about her apprehension, to which everybody was incredibly supportive, we set off in a decent stride up hill. After and hour and thirty minutes of hiking the moment suddenly came that we were within four hundred meters of the gorillas. Emotions reached overflow and Katie had tears in her eyes; having not only made it but that we were only minutes away from being part of a fantastic experience.
Katie instantly got told off by pointing at the first Gorilla we saw, that just happened to be a mighty big Silver Back. The sight of them was so magical that your heart almost stops and movement becomes a second thought. We were incredibly lucky during our hour with the group and saw twenty seven out of the forty one gorillas. No other wildlife we have come into contact with has made either of us feel so privileged. Having been told to keep seven meters away seems like a sensible option but the gorillas seem to have their own idea, especially when you are stood near some juicy looking food. At one point we were confronted by three massive Silverbacks appearing from the forest and strolling past us all, only meters from our faces. The highlight clearly being when one stood bolt upright and put on his proudest pose. Life as a gorilla seems to appeal to Steve; sitting about, eating, sleeping, only moving to find another comfy spot surrounded by more stuff to chew!
There are few moments in life were you actually stop breathing because something in front of you is just so amazing and overwhelming that even natural automatic response like breathing can not function, as the body has been overloaded. The gorillas for us was one of those moments, time stood still and we were there with these amazing creatures looking into one another’s eyes; absorbed into the moment and the pure delight. Even words like astonishing, awesome, amazing, fantastic, stunning, breath taking, mind-blowing, inconceivably brilliant - can not explain or express the sensation of seeing a wild mountain gorilla. It has been a dream come true and a memory that will last forever and one that we intend to bore our grandkids with! It has been over a week since we had tracked the gorillas and we are still talking about it, bringing massive smiles to our faces. |
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Having recovered slightly from the day before, we headed west towards another massive lake. We managed to find a beautiful looking hotel and campsite right on the waters edge, but as normal the only place to camp with Gweneveer was the car park. This forced us to make a change due to the shoreline was so beautiful, with small waves lapping at the shore and the lake dotted with fishing boats. Because of this we opted to take out our small tent and camp a night on the beech, only metres from the water. Having an uninterrupted view meant that we could lie in bed whilst the fishing boats returned in the morning. As is common in Rwanda, the locals seemed to have thought about things and to improve fishing ability, have joined three boats together by long wooden poles, in order to use larger nets and fish enticing lights in the middle. As the boats swept across the water, the only sound that could be heard was the various crews singing a rhythmic song to paddle in time. As much as the setting was stunning, the small tent is NEVER going to be our first choice. If the hassle of putting it up and putting things wasn’t bad enough, the closet like space and oven temperature makes it and absolute pleasure to return to the roof tent.
Travelling the smaller roads has always been a favourite of ours, as the difference in the way people react and treat you on tarmac and dirt is massive. Dirt gives people so much more time to watch and react, not to mention being less used to western cars. When we stopped in a small village for a quick drink Katie was treated to her favourite image of the trip (No pictures were taken!). Whilst Steve was sat outside on the dirt path drinking his Coke a little boy, no more than two years old, appeared next to Steve simply to stand and stare at him. Of course what makes this stranger was that the little boy was wearing nothing but a dirty t-shirt that stopped where his pants should have been; instead his long willy was just dangling for the world to see. Both are at eye level, no words being used, just the occasional raise of the eyebrows (a common African motion). Having felt stared at enough, by the whole village and not just the little boy, we climbed aboard our chariot and bounced down the track.
In the next village it was Katie’s turn to have a little fun trying to buy some milk and bread at a little road side hut, half a dozen school children turned up, crowding round the door to watch and help the Mzungu with communicating. However there seemed to be more laughter than assistance.
Although the infrastructure is really good in Rwanda and they do have a number of international standard hotels there is very little in the way of camping facilities. This meant that we were limited to hotels again, most of which turned out to be bland, lifeless and expensive. Still it was nice to be able to go for a shower without having to get dressed when still half wet (like at the swimming pool) for a change. The added bonus of being in hotels though was the escape from the rains as the rainy season was beginning and came around every afternoon/evening.
Considering what Rwanda has been through in the past fifteen years since the genocide in 1994, it amazed us to see how friendly and pro-active the country is. We judge the friendliness not by the waviness of the children but by the older generations. In Rwanda waving to a passing car seems to bring as much joy to a sixty year old, or a thirty something, as it does to a five year old child. Everyone in all of the towns and villages seems active, a very rare sight in Africa. It is impressive when you see mothers digging trenches for pipes and cables or carrying bricks, whilst their small child is slung on their back. You also see chain gangs dotted around the country, most of who are dressed in bright orange jump suits, the exception to the rule are those dressed in pink suits. The country is slowing working through prosecuting those people that took part in the genocide and the pink represents someone that is being punished for the atrocities they committed.
By a lot of standards Kigali is a tiny capital city and really doesn’t have a lot within it. The one thing it does have is the National Genocide Museum, which although morbid is actually very enjoyable. It has been the only museum we have been to where you could actually hear a pin drop as everyone is almost holding their breath in disbelief at what they are reading and seeing. It isn’t a big museum but you do end up leaving with not only a better understanding about what happened here but also at how many other atrocities humans have inflicted within the last century around the world.
After yet another rubbish night in a hotel we headed away from Kigali, though not before enjoying yet another delicious coffee and cake (surprising what becomes such a big pleasure). The morning destination was far from an enjoyable one and in fact was one that made us feel a bit dirty and voyeuristic. We went and visited one of the two Memorial Churches south of the capital where thousands of innocent women and children were slaughtered using knives, guns and grenades. They never want to forget what happened; hence they have left the churches in a very un touched state. They do make it a very poignant visit, starting with seeing piles of victims clothes piled high on benches, giving you an understanding of the total destruction that occurred. But it is not until you are led down into the two cellars behind the church that your stomach really becomes entangled as you are faced with floor to ceiling shelves full of skulls and bones, many of which display the damage that caused their death.
As you can imagine the rest of the day was spent in a fairly sombre mood, only broken with the reminder that we were headed yet another country. With a long day ahead of us we set off early (6:20am) the next day, thinking we were nice early. Only to discover that probably 95% of Rwandans were not only already up and going about their daily lives, but were more than likely ten kilometres towards market!
The impression Rwanda has left on us is a positive one, how people can go through such terror and come out the other side, is a credit to their nature. |
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| For more photos please see the Gallery. We have also included a Special Gorilla photo gallery. |
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| Us And Gorilla |
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| Big Hairy Model |
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| Little Tent Camp |
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| Local Housing |
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| School Girl Help |
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| Working Mums |
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| Family Workers |
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| Is It Cold |
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| Gweneveer |
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