|
|
Diary - South Africa - Addo to Cape Town (31st Jan to 15th Feb)
|
If you thought we would be completely tired of animals you would be wrong. We had decided to get just one more dose of wildlife by a short trip up to Addo Elephant National Park. As it turned out there was plenty of Elephants in the park but not as many as tourists. We got there on the Sunday and every time we stopped we would soon be numbering up to ten cars. Saying that the elephants were wonderful, especially as one water hole grew from one bull elephant to at least a dozen males all coming out of the bushes for a chat one by one.
The night before at the camp we lost all track of time chatting to some ex-Austrians who did the same trip fifteen years ago and we both shared all our tales of travelling old and new. It seems that although we thought it would have been completely different back then, the same adventures and tales are still up for grabs. As with many people we meet they continue to have adventures every year, even as they near their eighties. Since then our fingers have been crossed that we can continue adventurous travels!
It was much warmer inland, especially at night so it was a shame we were yet again heading to the coast. This time it was a surfer’s paradise and a much more summer beach location. Jefferys Bay is the destination of thousands of surfers from around the world and where they make splashing about in the sea look cool and easy. Though we didn’t get chance to repeatedly fall into the picture perfect waves and turquoise ocean, we did watch the locals showing how it is done whilst the sun sank into the drink.
Finally the scenery has become stunning again and how we love to see Africa, on dirt roads. We headed back in land to an area known as Baviaanskloof and something that doesn’t even make it into guide books. The area is made up of gorges, streams and big beautiful scenery making the drive slow as you twist and turn up steep slopes and rocky terrain. Reaching the other side of the wilderness section we found camp next to an all too familiar half empty water dam. Much to Katie’s surprise Steve was very proactive and instantly grabbed a little canoe to take for a spin, not realising how soaked his bum would get.
The route back to the coast was a mixture of dirt and tarmac but although the surrounding hills and farm land was wonderful to see, the highlight was the middle and end of the journey. Inland from the coast and running parallel with it is a huge line of mountains separating the cool climate of the coast and the heat of the interior. This meant we had to take one of many passes to cross through this dramatic landscape, this time the Prince Alfred Pass. As we skirted the edge of the hillside holding our breath to stop us falling we were taken by surprise when the car was filled with the fresh smell of pine needles. Reaching the end of the pass gave us even more things to look at, including the highest bungi jump in the world of the Bloukrans bridge. Climbing out onto the bridge looked scary, never mind jumping off. Even though Steve has previously jumped off the bridge at Victoria Falls, this bungi was insane.
Even the evening was full of action and things to do as we stayed at Storms River Mouth and the Tsitsikamma National Park. It is an area of protected coast line and forests rather than for lots of big wildlife. The park is well setup to allow you to enjoy what mother nature has created and there is a number of footpaths and suspension bridges that span the river mouth. These bridges seemed a little sturdier than our last encounter and were only a few meters above the choppy waters so proved easy. As the sun set and the fierce waves pounded the ragged rocks it seemed like life could not get much better. |
|
We woke with the surrounds covered in rain, giving a very monotone feel, a complete contrast of the bright colours of the day before. Eventually the sun was winning the war against the rain clouds, turning the day into yet another sunny beauty. This gave us an excuse to sit in the warmth and watch some local birds of prey demonstrate their graceful abilities at Eagle Encounters. After being like kids and holding an owl and a hawk each we headed for the lagoon town of Knysna. It seems that property development has taken a firm grasp of the town and now is full of huge fancy holiday homes for rich people. However the town is a great mix of shops, alleys and cafes giving a very relaxed atmosphere.
Having sat on our butts for a long period we headed for some fun and found it in the form of some Kayaks. We decided to take some out for a little jaunt down a river and very briefly into the tiny surf. Nearly tipping us over in fits of giggles as we struggled to get back up stream. As normal Steve was critical but the surrounds were full of laughter and excitement from lots of people swimming and playing in the river. Thankfully they were as at one point we grounded ourselves in some shallow water and were being stubborn about not getting out and pushing, determined to free ourselves. Eventually our stubbornness paid off as a handful of black kids took pity and pushed us free to float off.
Unlike British summer days when everything near the coast clogs up with traffic, it is much easier here to find some beautiful spots without the hassle of traffic. This meant that we were amazed to find a crowded beach and jam packed sea at Victoria Bay when we arrived on a Sunday. Feeling the excitement and jolliness from the place we quickly climbed out the car and jumped into the surf with everyone else to get repeatedly smashed by some incredibly big and powerful waves. However as with all crazy things you simply pick yourself back up, check that the other one has resurfaced and get ready to do it again. Unfortunately our fun was brought to an end quickly as Katie got a boot to the head during a monster wave. The only way to distract her pain was to provide her with an ice cream!
As the Monday began we woke early all excited about going on the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe train ride from George to Mossel Bay. Normally it is pulled by an old steam train but because of the severe drought they are having it had to be replaced by a smelly diesel. The ride was good fun and very different from the norm, just getting to sit back and travel was a strange luxury. We decided to embrace the full tourist experience and we even sent postcards from the oldest post box in South Africa when we arrived at Mossel Bay. It was amazing how many people would stop and wave with massive wide smiles at the train as it went along, it might have had something to do with us sticking our heads out of the moving train and laughing till tears rolled down our cheeks.
Getting ever nearer to Cape Town was releasing more and more tension with every kilometre travelled. So when we got to Montague and had reduced the distance to only a couple of hours we were over the moon. Our first reactions to the camp site and town were the opposite, as it seemed a little bland on both counts. However after a dip in the pool to escape the 40C temperatures that had been blowing into our faces and then meeting our neighbourly campers our view changed. It was as if we had already spent a week there as we all seemed to have a good laugh and chat with ease. So much so that Steve kept taking four times longer just to go for a wee as he would get held up both going and coming back.
Having deliberated over do we or don’t we go to Cape Agulhas we eventually set our sails to head due south to the most southerly tip of Africa. On our way there we actually caught somebody, who ended up being a fellow overlander riding a BMW motorbike from England. Flashing, beeping and waving convinced Noel to pull over for a chat. We ended up in convoy to celebrate the landmark achievement and after initially not being fussed, the closer we got the better the feeling became. Getting there was fantastic and ended up even better as we were invited to stay at Hennah and Graham’s holiday home. Not only did they put us up, fed us, took us swimming in the back of a beach buggy, but they even had a reporter round for a chat to go into the local rag. |
|
Next came a long standing appointment with a British couple who spend a lot of time in the town of Greyton. Turning up you would easily be mistaken that you have driven straight into a small Cotswold town, with a tree lined main road and fancy bars and restaurants. The place really is ‘Little England’ especially as it is covered with Land Rovers and the small Saturday market is a wonderful collection of fine food and crafts. Our hosts, Martin and Christine, were fantastic and made us so welcome that we squeezed in an extra day to our stay. All the villagers, especially the Land Rover club, seemed to know who we were and they all made us feel special, getting to share tales of our adventures over dinner and get jealous at the sound of their pending journey this year.
It was really hard to drag ourselves away from Greyton as it was such a comfy place to be. Instead we had opted to have one last night of camping before arriving at Cape Town. The dream of one last Braii was soon put to bed when we felt completely stuffed from our previous hosts and exhausted from all the stories told and heard. Instead after a quick drive to Franschhoek and Stellenbosch we set up camp for the last time and tucked into the fancy cakes we had bought the day before!
And so came the day our dream came true. As we headed towards Cape Town in search of Table Mountain, with butterflies in our stomachs, we were amazed to find the mountain invisible in a curtain of cloud and mist from top to bottom. Having stopped at the massive shopping mall, Canal Walk, that is big enough for most towns to fit inside, we were delighted that the weather was improving. As we zigzagged through the road works Katie’s smile was getting wider, whilst Steve had become silent. As we pulled around the majestic waterfront and found somewhere to park our dream became reality. The release of stress, worry and sense of achievement was overwhelming and whilst Katie made lots of noise, Steve began weeping like a baby.
As we strolled into the waterfront and headed for a celebration lunch at the pancake restaurant, complete with milkshakes, it all seemed a little surreal to be back where the source of the seed was planted. It was such an odd feeling knowing what we had just completed; as when you step away from the car you become just another tourist in the mix of thousands with nobody understanding. It wasn’t a big celebration, but one of silent contemplation as we both had a huge sense of achievement, whilst sporting massive ear to ear grins. |
|
 |
| Addo Elephants |
 |
| Giant Tortoise |
 |
| One Of Many Streams |
 |
| Baviaanskloof |
 |
| Quick Canoe |
 |
| Baviaanskloof Track |
 |
| Storms River Mouth |
 |
| Suspension Bridge |
 |
| Eagle Encounters |
 |
| Train Riding Head |
 |
| Post Office Tree |
 |
| Cape Agulhas |
 |
| Lighthouse Climbing |
 |
| Scary Lighthouse |
 |
| Greyton English Cottage |
 |
| The Goal |
|